|A. The old kilt with it's blue sett.|
I've decided to bite the bullet and fix my formal kilt. I made this thing a couple of years ago (see the previous kilt article on this blog) and it hasn't fit right from about the 2nd second I wore it. I could never get it to sit right. I was determined to force it to work and lose about 4 stone of hippopotamus weight so it would work. Who was I kidding? Now I'm being realistic. If I suddenly lose half a person, I'll probably be overjoyed but very sick. At any rate, this is the less deluded me, going to work to re-do the $100+per foot tartan so I'll stop looking like a piano in a moving blanket.
|B. A green sett|
|C. A blue sett|
So this is a different sett. It shows more of the blue. The original way I had it was almost all blue. This time I opened it out and moved the pleat included more of the black part of the sett. I made the aprons slightly smaller too. They were much too broad before.
|D. The outer apron and the sett I chose|
|E. The inverted box pleat|
|F. Pinning the kilt|
|G. Under apron and first row of pins|
The next brilliant idea is to iron in the pleats when you have them all pinned. I hate ironing more than I despise turnips so I didn't do it, but I will eventually have to trot out the old iron and iron it to set in the new batch of pleats. Until then, I run in the sun and enjoy life.
|H. Sewing in the pleats|
I do a blind stitch, going back and forth between the two layers. It leaves less thread visible. The knots I hide inside where they can't be seen from either side of the kilt.
|I. Forming the waistband|
|J. Fringing the edge|
|K. Sewing on the waistband|
If you want a shorter kilt, make sure the part you cut goes under the waistband or it'll fray so much you end up with a two inch skirt and they'll call you a fraochÚn (hooker).
I don't know about your tartan but my material frays like a mother. It's wool. Every time I turned around there was another string coming out. So I used the original selvage edge for the under apron and hem.
To add a fringe on the top apron I folded the leading edge and folded the piece I was adding into the fold. I'll do a diagram later.
What this does is allow a fringe without it raveling your kilt away to a washcloth.
|M. That final pleat--YEAH!!!|
I fringed the plaids too. They look really nice and are a cheap way for my daughters to wear my clan colors.
|N. Pinning on the kilt pin|
I'd also love a nice Sgian Dubh (knife) even though it's really a guy thing.
So this is the finished kilt. Please keep in mind that it isn't ironed and that I'm still wearing my jeans under it. Sometime I'll add a picture of me in full regalia. For now, though, it's safely put away.
|O. The finished kilt|